Originally posted 2012-04-03 07:37:37.
Originally posted 2012-04-03 07:37:37.
It is a big thing for young horses when they are first bitted and mouthed so it is a good idea to do this as soon as you can (within reason). To them, a bit is a foreign body placed in their mouths which they cannot get rid of.
Between the ages of 0 – 5 and sometimes older in some cases, there is an awful lot of change going on in a young horse’s mouth. Teeth are erupting and baby teeth are falling out, much like human children. One thing that is imperative is that the horse or pony in question has its teeth checked over by a qualified Equine Dentist before any bitting and mouthing is attempted, and obviously every few months throughout the horse’s life.
Mouthing bits for young horses are great to start off with and designed to be comfortable whilst giving the young horse something to ‘play’ with. These bits for young horses often have ‘keys’ or something similar attached to it for that very reason.
These ‘mouthing’ bits should be introduced gradually and left in the young horse’s mouth for a short period of time at first, and then gradually building up to longer periods of time. DO NOT attach any side reins or similar at this stage. It is important that you don’t leave your horse alone whilst it is being ‘mouthed’
When choosing a bit for your youngster, consider its breed and mouth conformation. Bitting a young horse has to be done correctly from the offset so it must be comfortable and happy with what you are doing.
Actually putting the bit in the horse’s mouth should be no big deal for either of you as long as you are both relaxed. Don’t storm gung ho into the stable and ram the bit against his teeth – it will not get either of you anywhere. Instead, walk up and put the bridle on as you usually would but wait until the horse takes the bit voluntarily into his mouth. You may have to encourage him to open his mouth with a well-placed thumb, but keep it all quiet with no pressure.
Whilst fitting, make sure the mouthing bit sits comfortably in the horses’ mouth and do not apply any pressure to the bit – he is way off this stage at the moment. If the horse is somewhat reluctant try smearing something pleasant tasting on the bit to encourage them to open their mouths and accept it. All this should be done in the quietest most stress free way possible.
Always check every time that the young horse wears the bit for signs of discomfort and any rubbing on the sides of the mouth, in which case you may have to rethink your size or shape of bit.
You will soon notice how the horse will respond by chewing and playing with the keys on the bit. Don’t worry if this doesn’t happen the very first time you are mouthing your young horse. A loose ring mouthing bit will encourage a him to do this and by doing so they will develop a soft and wet mouth. There are many types of mouthing bits on the market these days, but all of them work in the same way. Remember the young horse will perceive the bit as a foreign body in its mouth so you have to make absolutely sure that the one you use will not cause any discomfort to the youngster which may lead to far bigger problems as you progressively ask the youngster to accept more later on.
It is perfectly normal when you are mouthing your young horse for them to play with their bit and by doing this they learn to accept them more and more. Loose ring mouthing bits with solid bars and keys are the traditional bits that are used to mouth youngsters.
By Ally Fricker
Originally posted 2012-04-01 07:35:47.
Arabian horses are the oldest purebred horse in the world and also, the most influential. Their blood lines have been used to improve many other well-known breeds throughout the world today.
In fact all Thoroughbreds in the world today can trace their ancestry through to 3 Arabian sires that were imported to England between 250 and 300 years ago. They were The Byerley Turk (about 1684-90), The Darley Arabian (1700) and The Godolphin Arabian (1730).
There are many different lines within the Arab breed. One of the most famous lines is the desert stock, which is also known as the Original or Elite Arab, bred by the nomadic tribesmen, the Bedouin. They needed a horse tough enough to handle the rigours of life in the desert – hunting, battles etc. – but also beautiful enough to be proud of. Very selective breeding methods were used over centuries to achieve this.
Other well-known lines included the Persian (or Crabbet), Egyptian and Polish. The Crabbet and Polish lines tend to be more solid, & less ‘extreme’ with their features, than the Egyptian Arab.
The head of Arabian horses tends to be short, with a prominent forehead, a concave face and a small muzzle. The eyes are set well apart and are large, almost ‘poppy’ in appearance. They have a deep jaw line and the ears are small, alert and curved.
They have a beautifully curved neck (Egyptian Arabs tend to have a slightly longer neck than the other lines) which comes into a short, strong back. They have a broad chest and a deep girth which provides a large chest cavity – essential when used in extreme desert conditions.
Perhaps one of the most well-known features of the Arabian horses, is their high tail carriage. Not so easily noticed though, is the fact that Arabian horses have one less lumbar vertebra in their backbone – 5 instead of 6 – than other horse breeds, and also 1 less rib.
The Arabian horses are perhaps most well-known for their success in endurance riding around the world. After having been selectively bred by the Arabs for centuries for stamina and soundness it’s little wonder.
They are also used for the high prize money desert racing (similar to endurance, but over shorter distances so at a higher speed) in Arab countries like Saudi Arabia, where it’s not uncommon for a good Arab racehorse to change hands for hundreds, if not millions of dollars.
Arabs are also brilliant allrounders – pleasure horses, pony club, show jumpers, show horses, dressage horses etc. They have an excellent temperament and are very intelligent.
Beginner – Experienced
I would not suggest an Arab for most beginner riders. They are a smart horse, and they do not appreciate being incorrectly ridden or handled – something which many people, from beginners to even the most experienced, do without even realising. However, they can suit any level, providing you are willing to learn the correct way to treat a horse – the best way is through one of the many natural horsemanship techniques.
Arabs don’t need to be handled any differently from any other breed…the problem is that many riders don’t even know how to properly handle other breeds. The difference is, most other breeds of horses (which are often not as intelligent) will put up with rough or incorrect handling…the Arabian horses won’t.
However, if you know how to handle horses correctly or are willing to learn, an Arab will be your friend for life, will do anything for you and will have one of the most trainable temperaments you’ll find on any horse.
Originally posted 2012-03-28 07:34:47.
The tail wrap being installed into the horses tail is a 3 tube fleece tail braid made by It’s A Wrap! Equine Tail Braids. The horses tail is sectioned into third’s and each third is pulled thru each tube.The tail is pulled thru with the tail wand that is provided. All you do is take the tail wand, put the pointy end in the top opening of the tail tube. With your fingers you grab a 1/3 of the tail and pull the hair thru the opening of the tail wand. Then you shimmy the fabric up until you reach the end. Grab and get a good grip on the wand and pull the hair down thru the tail tube. Do the same in the other 2 tubes. When that is completed all you need to do is braid and tie off at the end with tie that is supplied! Thats it! It might a few tries to get it down, but after that it can be done in about 5-10 minutes! I hope you enjoy!! Check my Facebook and website for additional information!
Originally posted 2012-03-28 07:32:54.
This is my “summer” tail wrap.
I do this so he still has a bat to hit the flies 🙂
I will post my “winter” tail wrap in a couple weeks when the temp cools and the bugs start to die!! 🙂
ENJOY!! and tell me how u do urs or make a video and post it to this one
Originally posted 2012-03-26 07:32:18.
Check out this video tip from Tommy Garland on how you can keep your horses tail, long, full and healthy.
Originally posted 2012-03-25 07:31:50.
Watch the grooms at Iron Spring Farm wash and dry the amazing mane, tail and feathers of Teade, a Friesian stallion
Originally posted 2012-03-23 07:31:09.
One of the best videos on YouTube for braiding draft horse mans and tales for horse shows. Experienced draft horse carriage driving company with horses used almost daily demonstrates: mane ribbon selection; how to thin manes and tails and correct length; braiding mane for halter or in-hand classes; and braiding mane for harness classes; and braiding docked tails and long tails. Hosted by Midge and Scott Harmon of Meadow Acres Farm for Virginia Draft Horse & Mule Assn., April 2009. Video by Terri Aigner of www.AignerGraphics.com , www.SpottedDraftStallion.com, and www.ArrivalsInElegance.com
Originally posted 2012-03-20 07:30:38.