Category Archives: Horse Training

Horse Training with John Lyons – Pull Back Part 1

Learning how to tie a horse requires skill and safety. Most people assume it’s safe to tie their horses because they’ve never seen them pull back. Yet whenever a horse pulls back, it can have significant—possibly even deadly—consequences for the horse and anyone who might be nearby. In this two-part video clip, John Lyons—Americas Most Trusted Horseman—explains the principles behind why he teaches horses to give to pressure, then he demonstrates techniques. The main goal is to learn how to tie your horse safely.

Originally posted 2012-02-09 07:09:19.

The Head Shy Horse – Reasons For Head Shyness

The vast majority of times, a horse is head shy because of something a human has done. It’s a learned response to a painful experience. Being smacked on the face, having an ear twitched, being hit over the head with a rope, whip or other object. Even a rider with rough hands once the bridle is on can make a horse head shy if the horse has made the connection between letting the bridle on and being jerked about in the mouth.

But as with any evasive behavior on the part of a horse, it is best to first rule out any physical problems. Why else would a horse be head shy? Well it can be a symptom of a badly fitting bridle. If the bridle is too tight, it presses on their poll and hurts. A badly fitting bit can be to blame. Or one that tastes horrid. How are his teeth? Are they due for filing? Do they have any spikey or sharp edges? Or any decay or abscesses? Now onto the eyes. Poor vision can make a horse head shy. They jump because they can’t see properly and it startles them. Remember too that the horse has a blind spot right in front of him. Always approach him from the side, never directly in front.

Onto the ears. Bites from flies, lice, ticks or other parasites in or on the ear can be painful. Warts can be too. And then there’s ear infections. Check the ears over thoroughly, especially if your horse seems to be more ‘ear shy’ than ‘head shy’. It is helpful to know if your horse has ever had any of the above. Sometimes just the memory of the bite or infection, even when it has cleared up, will keep a horse head shy.

And last of all, if none of the above fit, a chiropractic adjustment could be the solution. If the neck is out behind the ears, your horse may have a raging headache and quite rightly won’t want to be touched.

Phil Tragear
http://www.HorseTrainingSuccess.com
Wake up the horse whisperer in you, because there’s one in all of us.

About the Author
Phil is author of the comprehensive book ‘Horse Training Success’, full of answers to the most asked horse training questions. Stop by http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com for a huge selection of information regarding common problems, training of horses, equine psychology, how to get the best behavior and so much more!

 

Originally posted 2012-02-08 07:08:53.

If Your Horse Is Not Relaxed in the Ring, How You Can Calm Your Horse for a Show?

Horses are very sensitive to their environment and their owner’s emotions. If you are nervous, excited, or stressed out, the horse can pick up on this. Nervousness can be a common characteristic within some breeds, but there are ways to calm any horse if the correct methods are used.

–If it is at all possible bring your horse to a few shows, just hang out and let them get used to the environment.

–If it is not possible to prepare them for the environment then arrive as early as you can so the horse can settle in and adapt to the surroundings.

–Many people lunge their horses and feel that it helps with relaxing their horse in the ring. Others do not recommend it if there is too much excitement in the area. If you can find a fenced and quiet area then you may want to try it.

–If this is your horses first time in the ring make sure it is a positive experience or it can cause anxiety in the future making it much more difficult to correct.

–Rub your horse’s withers and neck moving down its back to mimic grooming. This will let your horse know you are present and that you will not let anything harm him or her. Let your horse investigate and observe his surroundings. If grass is available, letting the horse graze on a short lead may help, give them a treat or some grass.

–Calm yourself by smiling, breathing deep, sing a comforting song. Keep your posture non-threatening, your head downward somewhat, your arms relaxed and do not perform sudden movements, and always speak softly and calmly to your horse.

–Discover the cause of his or her anxiety and find a way to eliminate it from the location or his routine.

–Some people use aromatherapy and natural products which take the edge off of the horse’s anxiety. Horse Calm is one product which is an FDA registered homeopathic remedy using ingredients that calm your horse and soothe an anxious disposition, especially if your horse is not relaxed in the ring. This product can help heightened symptoms like rapid breathing, increased heart rate and it does not cause drowsiness or sluggishness.

Patience and understanding, keeping a positive, loving and calm demeanor will go a long way in helping a horse that goes from being skittish and not relaxed in the ring to a champion performer.

By

Rebecca Shelly is a regular contributor to Natural Pet Health a site concerning the health of our pets. To find something to calm your horse that is natural, gentle and effective, visit Equine Horse Calm.

Originally posted 2012-01-21 06:30:32.

Breaking Horses Is Easy If You Speak Their Language And Listen To What They Have Say

Now the journey has begun. You have a baby that has learned to accept the bit, go forward while being driven, accept strange things touching their sides and rump, learning small amounts of voice commands and accepting a saddle on their backs not to mention that annoying girth that really does not feel all that great. The next step is to get on their back. Probably most horses, if they accept human beings as their friend, will be fairly open to allowing you to climb aboard. For the few that really do not think that it is a good idea, your expertise will be necessary to help them to understand that this will be a part of their life and if they object a little, that is fine, but do not get carried away.

Again, make sure your stall has a considerable amount of bedding in it. Take your filly or colt into the stall with halter and shank attached. Put your horse facing the same way as every other day. Put on the bridle except now you will have reins attached to the bit. Put your saddle onto the horse and tighten a little, walk your baby around the stall once or twice. This is where you definitely need a good horseman at the head of your horse. After a few turns, tighten your girth up more and maybe one more turn. Stand your horse in the usual spot, horse holder on the left side in between the horses head and the rider who is standing facing the saddle on the horse’s back. Have the rider gather the reins; the horse holder is going to give the rider a lift up over the horse’s back but only gently laying across the saddle. This is called bellying them. If the horse is ok, while the horse holder is still holding onto the rider’s left leg with his or her right hand, they need to keep a good hold onto the baby’s head and ask the horse to go forward moving around in the stall. If the horse misbehaves, the rider can slide off and you can walk the horse around the stall one or two times and try again. Some babies will have a get a hump in their back which means they are getting ready to start bucking,so move the baby several turns one way, several turns the opposite way if the rider feels comfortable with you letting go of their leg. Now have the rider slide off, pat the horse and talk to the horse directly and maybe get back up one or two more times depending on how your horse is reacting. When you feel that you have accomplished your lesson for the day, untack and give your horse big words of approval and you are done. Turn your baby back out or give them a nice flake of hay. Remember to keep it short, sweet and to the point. Make sure that you have their attention at every step. This way your input will make an impact as long as you do not make the lessons too long and boring. Small amounts of learning each day will have big rewards in the end result. Knowing the difference makes the difference.

The next day follow the same procedure and if your horse seems unaffected by all of this, let the rider come back down and go back up slowly but this time sit on the horses back. Take a few spins around the stall, both ways. If your horse is very quiet, and does not have a hump in their back, if the rider feels confident, take the shank off and let the horse holder leave the stall and close the door. Now it is up to the rider to keep the baby going forward and help them to understand that rider up means going forward. Now the driving that you did will come into play. Do some easy figure eights in the stall. About five minutes of that is plenty. So, if the horse decides to cut a buck, there is not very far to go and the rider can stay in control. Ok, five minutes are up, horse holder back in the stall, snap on shank, take the tack off, big pat and maybe even a hug and perhaps some excited words for the student.

Repeat this the next day, if the horse is responsive, have the horse holder lead the baby out of the stall with the rider on, just be careful and go slow. Depending on whether you have a shed row which I think is the best for young horses or a paddock, the first day you should keep the horse holder at the horse’s head. The next day if the rider feels comfortable, then turn the baby loose after a few turns around the shed or in the paddock. This is when having more than one horse being broken is greatly to your advantage. There will be a leader and the others will follow as a general rule. Well, I have gotten you to the paddock with rider on your horses back. I will be back shortly to continue with the next step in breaking and educating your horse.

By
http://bevshorseadvice.com
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and is now offering my very first natural horse product, Bev’s Equine Magic Salve, that is above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results

 

Originally posted 2012-01-19 06:45:28.

Best Start for the Unbroke Horse Series: Simplifying Cues – Legs and Reins

This collection features eight hours of demonstrations on three different unbroke horses. Advanced work on finished horses. This information is concise, easy to understand and follow for novice or advanced riders. Grounding Our Training • Basic and Advanced Round Pen Work • Halter and Bridle Training • Catching and Stall Manners • Working with Two Horses • Spooking and Obstacles • Dragging Objects • Sacking Out and Saddling First Ride and Beyond • First Ride • Introducing Leg Cues • Riding Over Obstacles • Hip and Shoulder Control • Stopping, Backing and Side Passing

Originally posted 2012-01-16 06:44:08.

Giving to the Bit

In 2004 , John Lyons decided to undertake one of the most challenging tasks of his careet, Television. On November 4th, 2004, John Lyons, “America’s Most Trusted Horseman “Training from the Heart on RFD-TV.

Disclaimer: John Lyons Symposiums, Inc. provide these samples for enjoyment purposes only. Any/all training techniques, tips, suggestions and/or comment made on the John Lyons® website are strictly designed to provide an example of what one can expect if purchasing any of the John Lyons products line. These samples are not designed to provide indepth training techniques. Use at your own risk.

Originally posted 2012-01-16 06:43:26.